The annual Twin Town reunion took place at Bagnols-sur-Ceze in the Rhone region of France between 14 and 18 November 2007. Edwina Cooper, the Mayoress and I drove to Stanstead Airport and met up with members of the Twin Town association to fly to Marseille by Ryanair. I had no experience of flying by a budget airline so I did not know what to expect. As I have extra long legs, I am usually able to get a seat with plenty of leg room. I could not do that but I did get an isle seat. However, the seats are fixed with no ability to recline so I had an uncomfortable flight. Any refreshments have to be purchased. I was glad that the flight only took 90 minutes. A coach arrived to drive us up to Bagnols and when we arrived, we were taken into the European Village for refreshments and where we met some of the hosts. We were taken to our hotel the St George (we liked the name) to offload our cases and we were then taken with Stewart Durrant to have supper with his hosts with whom he was staying for the 4 day period. We were subsequently driven back to our hotel by the host’s wife. At the hotel, we met up with our German counterparts, the Mayor (Burgermeister) of Braunfels, Herr Wolfgang Keller and his wife. They both spoke excellent English which was good for Edwina who does not speak German and mine is a bit rusty!
The next day, Thursday 15th was regional heritage day so we went to Avignon for the day. Regrettably, we missed the coach and we were taken there by Didier Hamon, an official in the Town Hall responsible for Twin Town activities, in his car as he had a meeting there. We eventually met up with the other delegates at the Palace of the Popes. This is perhaps the time to mention the Mistral. This is a very cold northerly wind which blows down the Rhone valley into the Mediterranean. It cuts through even the warmest clothing and could well, in unsheltered areas, blow you off your feet. The Palace is an enormous complex and has many open areas which even the Mistral can penetrate. The Palace and was built in the 14th century. Initially, Avignon was not part of the Holy See but the owner of lands on the outskirts of Avignon, the Count of Toulouse, left these lands to the Holy See. With problems in Italy, the Holy See moved to Avignon under Pope Clement V, who closely cooperated with King Philip of France and not surprisingly, the next six Popes were all Frenchmen. It was Pope Benedict XII who during his papacy between 1334 and 1342 started the construction of the Palace. The Holy See returned to Rome in 1378, leaving this enormous palace in the hands of a papal legate. This palace was a mighty symbol of ecclesiastical power and although there is not much left in the way of fixtures and fittings, it still retains an element of its former glory. If anyone wishes to visit, choose the summer when the Mistral is not blowing. We left for lunch at the auberge LaTreille on Piot Island and enjoyed the warmth of good food and red wine of the Rhone. After that, we then boarded a pleasure boat which did a circular tour of several miles which gave us a close view of the famous old bridge, le Pont d’Avignon. The original bridge was built in the 12th century but was mostly destroyed in 1226 and only the small chapel remained intact. A new bridge was built a few years later and survived intact until the 17th century when a flooded Rhone swept part of the bridge’s arches away and remains as much today. Architecturally, it is a gem but I am surprised the authorities have done nothing to it to make it more of a tourist attraction.
After the boat trip, we had free time to explore Avignon and do some shopping. Edwina took the in initiative of buying a scarf to protect herself from the Mistral and then we went into le Place de l’Horloge where the local wine growers were offering samples of the new wine. Then there came the procession of the wine guilds from throughout the Rhone wine region in their gowns, hats and regalia. It was a colourful procession and bystanders cheered on their local guilds as they processed by. They then gathered outside to sing their guild wine songs before going into the nearby Town Hall for a celebratory meal. We all returned to the coach for the drive back to Bagnols. That evening, the Mayors and their partners were entertained to supper at a local restaurant by the Mayor of Bagnols, Mr Rene Cret. It was a very pleasant and relaxed evening with good food and more ‘young’ wine. It was an opportunity to speak with other Mayors and their partners and although French was spoken most of the time, English was also spoken which was a relief.
We were pleased to return to the hotel as it had been a long day.
On Friday, I was involved with a lengthy session with the other delegates in talking through the next years programme while Edwina was taken off for a tour of the town and its environs, including a visit to a recycling plant. We then met up for lunch at the multicultural room at the Escanaux before we went off by coach to a nuclear power exhibition at Marcoule, organised by the CEA, the French power company. It covered subjects such as nuclear radiation, waste, protective clothing, nuclear rods and components. We then returned to Bagnols and to the hotel to freshen up and get ready for the evening. We were taken with Mr and Mrs Keller to the Venejan Wine cellars for a buffet and to taste the new wine. We were all amazed at the size of the complex: some three stories high and divided into four of five different areas, it processes and stores gallons (or should I say litres) of wine in vats before being bottled. We were offered canapés with the wine which seemed to improve as the evening progressed. Eventually, the wine and food finished and we were driven back to Bagnols. As we were hungry for a proper meal, we were able to get the last table at a fish restaurant which seemed to be the only one open. Afterwards we walked back to the hotel which was about half a mile away.
Saturday was the last full day in Bagnols and it began at 10 a.m. with the unveiling of a direction post at the Jean Monnet European roundabout on the edge of town. Its branches indicated each of the Twin Towns and their direction and distance from Bagnols. The Mistral wind was still blowing so we did not tarry long there but walked back to the town and to the European village where each of the Twin Town set up their samples of produce from their home countries for the others to sample. The Newbury contingent had brought a wide range of British cheeses together with a map showing where they originated, and although some of the local people thought it was rather like taking coals to Newcastle, (or at least the French equivalent), they were impressed enough to taste it and there was little left at the end of the morning. We did visit the other stands and it was remarkable to see such a wide range of food and drink throughout the European Twin Towns. After a buffet lunch, we were free to wander around the town in the afternoon before we returned to the hotel to change for the climax of the reunion, the official dinner and dance.
Early that evening, we were collected with the Mayor of Braunfels and his wife and driven to les Eyrieux sports centre and entered the sports hall which had been transformed into a large function room for around 300 people, complete with a stage, dance band, loudspeaker system, and over 50 white cloth bedecked tables and a large dance floor. A small army of waiters were waiting in the wings to serve the meal. We were taken to a bar where we were served aperitives before being taken to our table. I had assumed that we would be seated with our respective delegations but this was not to be. We were seated with the Bagnols Mayor’s staff who were pleased to meet us. Language did not seem to be a problem.
I should perhaps say at this stage that I was in a suit and wore the Newbury Town pendant. I noted that none of the other Mayors wore anything which would identify them as such. Even the Mayor of Bagnols did not wear a tricolour sash as I was told they do wear sometimes. Each of the visiting Mayors were prepared to give a speech and these were to be given during the dinner. I was somewhat nervous as I had prepared mine in French and although I had been tutored beforehand by Amelie Rousset of Park House school, it was a daunting prospect. I remember I was about the fourth speaker and the previous two had given their speeches in their own language with an interpreter on hand, so I felt better about it.
I believe there was some surprise I did give my speech in French as those in the Mayor’s office knew I spoke little French. It was well received so I was able to relax for the rest of the evening. There was an exchange of gifts and I presented the Bagnols Mayor with a model of a narrow boat with a brass engraving on it, purchased from the Stone Building in Newbury. To the other Mayors, I gave a copy of the book describing the Town Mosaic on the wharf. I was given what seemed to be a long box which was gift wrapped and which I did not open that evening. There was dancing after the dinner which was led by Rene Cret and it was the cue for Edwina and I to get onto the dance floor. It did develop into a crush on the floor but somehow we survived. The time flew and before we knew, everyone started to leave. Despite the cold evening, we did walk back to the hotel and retired for the night.
After breakfast, we said our goodbyes to Wolfgang and his wife who did say that whenever we were near to Braunfels, they would be pleased to see us. I have no doubt we will see them in Newbury on a future reunion. Later that morning, we went into town and had a good lunch at a restaurant at the top of the town before getting to the coach which took us to the airport at Marseilles. Checking in my luggage of two bags, I was told that it exceeded the 15kgs and that I could transfer
some of the contents into my hand baggage. This I did including the as yet unwrapped gift. To my horror, the box contained a bottle of wine which they would not allow me to take on board. Despite my protestations, they would not budge. I was not pleased and I was glad when we landed at Stanstead Airport and back to a cold and very wet England.
Despite this trauma, it was a wonderful reunion and I wrote to Rene Cret thanking him and his staff for their kindness and hospitality. We might even return, but not by a budget airline.